How to Make Your Own Custom Shoes at Home!
This is a Freaky shoes item that you can use to make your own pair of shoes with materials you can buy from an art store or fabric store. I base my technology on traditional shoemaking methods, but you don’t need expensive materials, comfortable assembly, or complicated tools.
This method also creates perfectly fitting shoes because the pattern is drawn from your own feet!
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The total cost of this project is less than $ 50 and takes less than 20 hours.
* Note: if you do not want to wear leather, the shoes are probably best as indoor shoes only *
2 square thick cap (OR shoe leather, which can be purchased at a shoe repair shop)
1 yard for each fabric/leather outside the shoe
1 yard of fabric used inside the shoe
Thread (thicker is best)
Superglue (or shoe Goo)
Last (foot cast)
13+ oz. alginate
64+ oz. Permastone (or another casting agent such as rubber)
Loophole (usually comes with loops)
The most important step in any project is the design phase. Think about what type of shoe you want to make and make some sketches.
On my shoes, I ended up wanting to make a more admirable dance shoe with a wider head that doesn’t pinch my toe.
Step 2: Make it last
We have to do one last before we do anything.
A "last" is a hard object, generally made of wood, around which the shoemakers build their shoes. Hard as feet, with extra space in front of the toes to accommodate the elegant and pointed style common in shoes.
Durations are important because they allow you to accurately draw your patterns, give you a harder surface to work with, and they also provide quick context when you're not sure.
Here you have two options:
1) Buy a last one: ask a shoemaker or do a search on the Internet (it's not expensive)
2) Plaster your foot and increase it.
I will teach you how to make your own tips, but if you choose to buy them, they are not very expensive.
Step 3: Casting Your Foot: Preparation
Lasting is a great way to ensure a perfect fit for your feet. For this process, you will need alginate to make a mold for your foot, a molding material and a box to hold your mold.
To make your mold, you first need any kind of box or makeshift box for your feet.
Leave plenty of space around your foot (note: the more space you leave, the more alginate you will need).
Step 4: Casting Your Foot: the mold
It's time to do your mold, which is bad for your foot. Alginate can be found in most craft stores. It is non-toxic and good for single-use molds. I use a 13 ounce bag, which costs about $ 8. You may want to use a bag and a half, but we can settle for just one bag. This material will not damage your tools.
First, mix the alginate and water in a large mixing bowl. You can use a spatula, but your hands are the best mixers. You will use about 6 cups * COLD * water for a whole bag, but I strongly recommend that you add water gradually to your mixture is not too runny.
The alginate is ready to flow when it is gloopy.
Working quickly, pour the mixed alginate into the box you made.
Put your foot in the box. Depending on whether you want your shoes to fit your foot on the ground or not, you may want to suspend your foot in alginate without letting it touch the ground.
Your feet should be covered slightly above the ankles in the alginate. If you don’t have enough alginate, add empty space in the mold to fill some napkins.
Wait about 20 minutes for the alginate to solidify into a firm jelly.
Step 5: Casting your foot: Removing your foot
Remove your feet from the alginate mold. Be careful when doing this; alginate stays well, but you don’t want to copy songs.
If you are worried, you can use a knife to * cut * carefully * the top of your foot and pull your foot out.
Step 6: Pain in your foot: Pain
You will need about 5 cups of your casting material for the average size of a men’s shoe (estimate). I am going to use Permastone, which is inexpensive and more durable than plaster. If you have a shortage of material, you can add filler in the form of napkins (such as with an alginate mold) or powders such as sawdust.
Mix your material as instructed and pour it into an alginate mold. Place the bowl and mixer in the sink under running water while working to minimize damage to the tools.
1) Tilt the box back and forth to make sure you get it on your toes and slits.
2) Tap the sides of the box, shake it against the ground, and continue tilting until air bubbles are forced to the surface. This is satisfactory.
However, keep in mind that we do this cheaply and easily, so the mold is probably not perfect and that’s OK.
Let your actor sit until you are sure it is dry.
Note: I use PermaStone, which is pretty cheap ($ 6 a box), but you can substitute another material like rubber if you have the means. I do not recommend gypsum because it lasts forever and is sensitive.
Step 7: Casting Your Foot: the Pull
When your equipment is dry, disassemble your box to have a large cube of alginate.
Don't be shy: rip your alginate to reveal your mold. Do not worry about alginate, it is intended for single use.
If you plan to wear your shoes, you will also want to do the other foot :)
Step 8: Last your foot last
After designing your shoe, crumple the ribbon and add it to the front of your plaster to round the end as desired.
It is important that you are satisfied with the shape of your last shoe because the shape of the last one determines the shape of your shoe.
Step 9: Cover your last masking tape and draw your pattern
Wrap your last whole in two or three layers of masking tape (you must also cover the bottom of the last!).
Then carefully draw the patterns for the design of your shoe on the ribbon.
Finally, cut your masking tape pattern along the lines you drew with your utility knife.
* Most importantly, * continue your cuts on the bottom of your last at least 1 ". You will need this additional fabric to properly sew your shoe together in the later steps.
Your model must consist of at least four parts (see diagram).
1) Vamp: This part covers your laces and goes down to the bottom of the shoe
2) Counter: this is the back of the shoe. It is generally more rigid to give the shape of the shoe (but not necessarily)
3) Toe: the front of the shoe
4) The ... other part: This part is located between the front of the shoe and the upper.
* Note: this process can also be used to copy the pattern of a shoe you really like *
Step 10: Flatten Your Patterns
Delete the shapes (be careful not to tear them) and flatten the 3D shapes into 2D models.
If necessary, cut darts (triangles) into the pattern a few extra inches from the bottom of the last piece to smooth the patterns.
Step 11: Trace and cut the patterns
Trace your pattern on paper.
Add 1/4 "seam allowance for all your patterns.
If you’re new to sewer, you may want to add even more allowances so you can “wave” your shoe structure.
* Note: be sure to draw the pattern on the shoe tongue as well (a rectangle whose shape is defined by the image). *
Step 12: Make the patterns more useful
In the last step, you drew the patterns on the paper and then increased the seam allowance.
If we left things here, we would have a problem: by sewing the pieces of fabric back together, it would be difficult to allow the seam allowance purely out of sight.
So at this point, we cut small pockets along the original pattern so we could mark our material in the next step.
Step 13: Cut the fabric
Arrange your patterns on your canvas. Attach the patterns to the fabric with either tape or a pin.
Lightly draw the fabric patterns with a fabric or marker and be sure to mark the seam allowance in the holes we cut as the last step.
Cut out the pieces.
* Note: remember to cut the patterns twice: once on the outside and once on the inside material. *
* Note: consider the side of the fabric you want to display. *
* Remember: Keep paper patterns; for the opposite shoe, you flip your pattern and repeat. *
Step 14: Sew the pattern pieces together
Now you need to sew all the patterns together. If you are not familiar with sewing, check out the following few steps for help.
You can sew your songs together in two ways.
The first way:
Place the patterns up and fasten them together so that the marked seam allowance instructions follow each other. This can be a little difficult.