WHAT IS A SMEAR IN ROCK CLIMBING?
The feet are the most crucial tool used in climbing. There are different methods on how feet is used in climbing; such methods include; smearing, jamming, and edging, Edging is usually used when the point to be mounted has small footholds while smearing is applied in a situation where there are no footholds. Smearing can be described as a situation where one presses the sole of their climbing shoe into a rock and pushes themselves up using the only available friction created by their footwear. Jamming involves the climber lodging themselves into available cracks instead of clutching into holds. Smearing is a bit tricky, and will require whoever undertaking it to prepare adequately. At times smearing can be terrifying since the chances of the climber's feet slipping are usually high though some climbers find it an easy task to engage in. To get better understanding of the three practice we will have to look at each one of them in detail.
Smearing.
Smearing requires one to employ both technical and physical measures. A climber who is flexible and has a natural sense of balance will be in a position to advance swiftly irrespective of their strength. While smearing, one has to trust their shoes and their body to impel them upward with their foot holding onto nothing. The more vertical the landscape is, the more force the climber will require to apply on their toes. This will involve one pushing their body and waist out from the wall to channel their weight to their feet. Smearing is one of the best ways for the trainee climbers to study balance and grow good footwork technique since it demands more creativeness and approach.
Smearing is known to be one of the old-style technique in climbing. It is believed that no one can have enough practice on smearing; thus, those who do it successfully depends on how sufficiently they had prepared themselves prior to the exercise. Many people associate it with magic as those who can climb on areas where it is impossible for one to climb on. A climber who intends to engage themselves in smearing exercise should acquire the best shoes for support, as well as the best shoes with support. The two phrases mean that the kind of footwear which should be used should have the ability to aid the climber to undertake their exercise efficiently by having the right features to make them suitable for the undertaking.
Jamming.
Jamming in rock climbing needs one to practice persistently; upon mastering the required skills in this practice, one finds the exercise relatively easy to engage in. Though there may be no holds for one to clutch onto as they climb, there will always be cracks where the climber can slip their feet in, to aid in propelling themselves to the next available hold. First-time jammers might experience a little discomfort or even pain, but on practicing for some time, that feeling disappears completely. Jamming does not require one to employ a lot of effort; for a fact, the focus should only be put on; how the climber places their feet into the hold or the had to garner the momentum needed to push one upwards. Upon carrying out the necessary training, one will find it quite comfortable and exciting to carry out jamming exercises.
At the start, one should analyze the face of the rock they are intending to climb and identify the right points from where they can access footholds for resting their hands and ankles. Since jamming is a very strenuous exercise where one can easily lose their grip or get an injury, a climber needs to get a synergy between their foot and hands as well as move-in unison with pace to make the whole exercise enjoyable.
Edging.
It is of the vital footwork concept since it is used during all the time involved in the climbing exercise. Edging is practiced in areas associated with tiny holds, when a climber finds himself in such situations where their climbing shoes cannot fit in the available footholds; they are forced to make use of their big toe area of the climbing shoe as well as 180 degrees of their footwork. It is quite a challenging task and risk at the same measures, but that is all that edging entails.
The edging process requires one to rest their weight on the inside edge of their climbing shoe. The reason why this has to happen is that the sturdiest part involved in rock climbing, which is the big toe, is on the inside edge. On wedging the inside edge onto a foothold, the climber can propel themselves up the rock to reach the next handhold as they steady themselves while preparing for the next move. The outside edge is best used for traversing literally along a wall. The moves made on the outer edge should be quicker as the part is naturally feeble. Edging exercise demands foot practice, strength as well as balance for one to perform effectively.
For effective and easy edging, the climber should have the right footwear to achieve their objective with minimal hindrances. The best footwear for edging is the stiff climbing shoes with a flat shape; shoes with such features are recommended because they absorb more pressure and fatigue developed while standing on a minute foothold. It should be noted that shoes with flat shapes do not mean that male climbers can use the best men's shoes for flat feet.
Apart from the right climbing footwear, edging is also made efficient by good foot placement, the climber's pressure, and the cleanliness of the rock surface. Good practice prior to the real edging makes one perfect; one should also try their edging shoes before the actual exercise to ascertain that they work perfectly with their feet.
Flagging Rock Climbing.
This is a rock climbing technique that enables the climber to go up the wall, applying little power, strength, energy, and endurance. For an effective flagging, one should plan their route well, find perfect traction, and place their body in a way that will enable them take advantage of it. Flagging involves making use of body positions such as; leaving a hand dangling or one foot without a place to hold on and using the dangling part to counterbalance one's body as they plan the next move. For proper flagging, one should maintain their body balance, which can be achieved through; the climber holding with the right hand as well as keeping their weight on their left foot. The vice versa can also help achieve the same purpose. One should also have a good know-how of their center of gravity.
Smearing, edging, flagging, and jamming practices will depend highly on the kind of footwear the climber puts on. To successfully manage any of these practices, they will have no choice but to go for the right footwear. These practices are just like any other kind of game which needs the competitors to be in the right costumes. For a fact, we cannot talk about playing costumes without mentioning the footwear as it makes a very vital part of any sport. The way the basketball players will need top shoes for basketball, soccer players too will need the top soccer boots; top climbing shoes will be a priority to climbers.
Best climbing shoes.
Climbing footwear forms part of the climber as it connects them with the rock surface. Whether edging, smearing, jamming, bouldering, or whichever climbing activity you involve yourself in, you will need the best climbing shoes. Although different climbers will have different climbing aggressiveness levels, each of them will need as almost suitable climbing footwear as the other. The market is full of footwear made to fulfill various tests and preferences over a diversity of individuals. Here we outline the different categories of climbing footwear, sampling out their features so that the climber can make the right decision on whichever they will go for to suit their interest and what they want to form part of their climbing “partner.”
La Sportiva TarantuLace.
La Sportiva, discovered in 1928, is well-crafted superb footwear that is suitable for outdoor climbing purposes. A climber on this pair is assured of tackling high rated routes as it is designed to provide several climbing styles. They are mostly preferred by advanced climbers, for they are modified to produce unique features. Such features include: Being designed to form a 1.8mm LaspoFlex at their midsole as well as 5mm Frixion RS at their sole, making them enormously steady and durable.
They are modified to produce a tight-fitting to the wearer's feet, a condition they meet without subjecting the wearer to abnormal aches. They will not add unnecessary pressure on the feet's pressure points, which makes the wearer's feet well secured on them. Their security on the feet is added by their lacing system designed to enable quick-pull; thus, the wearer will be able to wrap their feet up cozily, giving it extra fit, thus securing the feet further.
Their uppers are made up of leather material, which is unlined to make it soft; the part has a lined tongue, which aids in controlling moisture making the shoe breathable. It has a highly advanced edging; this enhances the climber's ability to smear, edge, hook, and flag. The soles are made of rubber heel rand, enabling it to produce good traction with any terrain the wearer may traverse on.
Scarpa Instinct VS.
Scarpa is one of excellent climbing footwear made for men. Their manufacturer has ensured that it produces the best protection to the feet, fitting, stability, and support. On top of this, they are modified to create an excellent toe power; this gives the climber propelling ability making them move up quickly. The forefoot is made from viram xs edge; thus, it offers the climber with the kind of grip they may wish to have from fantastic climbing footwear. It is designed to protect the wearer from developing deformations of any sort when they step on edges; they also come with Scarpa instinct lace, making the wearer's feet cozier.
La Sportiva Genius.
It is one of unique climbing footwear in the market for it is designed to cater for both indoor and outdoor climbing activities, it is also made to accommodate both genders so anyone can use them. They are known for their excellent comfort, durability and supportive. They are modified to give the wearer’s foot comfort while at the same time securing it as they have a quick-pull lacing system which enables reasonable regulations of the inner space allowing one's feet to fit accordingly. This factor also makes it accommodate feet of different sizes and shapes as one can regulate its internal volume to achieve the desired fit.
La Sportiva TC pro.
This pair is durable, supportive, stable, and highly breathable. It is designed to give its users what they require to take their climbing expertise to a different level. It is made of leather on its uppers, designed to make it as breathable as possible; this ensures that wearer's feet remain cool and dry all through. They have a Vibram rubber rands for soles, which gives it excellent traction with whichever kind of surface one may traverse on, thus assuring the wearer of stability. La Sportiva is recommended for the climber trainees for it is more secure compared to other climbing shoes.
Evolv Defy.
This pair is made of synthetic synthratek at its upper part giving it an excellent breathability, this ensures that one’s foot will remain cool and dry all through. It has a nylon which is plush and comfortable making it a fantastic footwear to choose for climbing. It gives a soft and secure fit thus increasing the comfort of the wearer's feet, it also has an anti-microbial mesh which helps in doing away with any bacteria which might find their way in the shoe, the mesh also helps in doing away with any form of stench from the shoe enabling the wearer to keep high standard of hygiene. It has a TRAX rubber sole that gives it a superb traction with any terrain, this assures the climber of stability all through. The sole will also increase the level of friction between the shoe and the surface giving the climber the desired grip against rock faces.
Five Ten Anasazi VCS.
This shoe was pioneered by Charles Cole when he needed climbing footwear with an excellent grip to enable him to climb Yosemite and Joshua Tree parks. The shoe is modified to achieve various climbing activities. They can be used for indoor and outdoor climbing undertakings. Five ten is the best climbing footwear for intermediate moderate hikers; this is because they are designed to enable the mountaineer to engage on some tricky climbs, which will allow them to advance from their trainee status to a high level of climbing. They come with a Velcro strap, enabling them to fit nicely on the hiker's feet, making the feet comfortable and secure. It has an asymmetrical toe box incorporated with a high heel tension to offer excellent support on the wearer's feet. The uppers are constructed from synthetic materials that do not allow it to stretch even if subjected to whichever conditions. This factor ensures that one’s feet is highly secured hence the mountaineer will undertake their climbing business with much confidence. They are designed to accommodate a 4.2mm C4 outsole which is made of rubber; therefore, robust and highly durable, the sole also provides superb traction with whichever kind of surface one traverses on thus the climber is assured of stability all through.
Tanaya Tarifa.
Tanaya is well designed to suit technical hikers as well as those with slim feet. On this pair a climber is able to edge with ease in whichever condition and smear excellently on a low angle. The pair will enable its user excel on routes that need foot placements, it will also power the wearer’s toe thus propelling them to the next level.
Tanaya is a high performance shoe that provides the hiker excellent comfort. It is modified to give it interior shock as well as, finely padded in the sock to make them cozier thus the hiker will not experience fatigue even if they stay for long hours on this shoe. They have a flexible lacing system which can be tightened and loosened with much ease making them fit well to ones feet making it more secure. This will also make them fitting to feet of different shapes, hence it stands out as a variety which suits many people. They are breathable since their uppers are made of microfiber which is well aerated, this ensures that the wearer’s foot remains cool and dry all through.
Butora Acro Wide Fit.
This footwear is designed to fit climbers with broad feet, and those are looking forward to engaging in steeper sport climbing ways, not forgetting the hikers who like a boulder.
They are made of a soft rubber incorporated with a toe patch that offers high friction to enable the hiker toe hook; it also has a heel cup combined with gummy rubber to enhance heel hooking. It is an enormously flexible and dynamic mountaineering shoe that accommodates several types of movements. Its uppers are made of natural leather, which is well incorporated with tender synthetic material; the material is also well perforated to make the shoe breathable; thus, the climber's feet will remain snug all through.
To enhance their ability to provide the needed grip with different surfaces, they are modified to produce a sizeable gummy rubber toe patch to enhance toe hooking in whichever conditions the hiker may find themselves in. On top of this they have a high- tensioned heel rand which provides the climber with the power in their toe to make them attain the required grip for excellent edging. It is designed to fit several shapes as well as sizes of feet as its upper is modified to acquire a sock-like shape and incorporated with turndown boostic, making it flexible.
Scarpa Boostic.
They are designed in MRRB technology, making them easy for the climber, on this pair to traverse on steep verticals. It is also flexible making it able to accommodate feet of different shapes and sizes. Its lace-up system is designed to make it easy for the wearer to put the shoe on, out as well as adjust it. It is made of materials which are modified to make it highly breathable; thus, the wearer's feet will remain cool and dry all through. Its sole is lined with TXT treatment making it able to do away with any micro- bacteria which may find their way into the shoe, this also help to fight any conditions of stench. It’s mid- stiff midsole offers the climber the much needed sensitivity to go through extremely sloppy terrain as well as vertical edging with minute footholds. It makes the climbers feet comfy for its make involves multiple microfiber which is well aerated to make the shoe highly breathable as well as well conforming with the wearer's feet.
How to Choose Climbing Footwear.
Footwear is an essential tool for a successful climbing exercise, the right footwear will have a lot of contribution to climber's achievements as long as climbing is concerned. Although some people would like to associate successful climbing to a good technique, the choice for the right footwear forms a better part of the equation. Different climbers will have a diverse perfect fit for their undertaking, ranging from bouldering slippers, comfort-first models to flat-lasted. The following should form some of the critical considerations which any climber should focus on as they make the right choice for the best climbing footwear.
The climber’s climbing style.
The type of climbing one engages in is a crucial part of the footwear they should choose. For instance, climbing is a fairly broad discipline and you will find that a shoe used for indoor climbing tasks or gym for that case will not be used when it comes to climbing on the tall or rocky peaks. There are four main climbing styles which include: bouldering, sport climbing gym climbing and trad climbing, each will require a different type of a footwear to be undertaken.
The closure type.
The type of closure produced by a climbing footwear is an essential consideration while choosing a climbing shoe. Several climbing shoes will produce; lace-up, slipper or Velcro types of closure, a factor which determines the shoe's strength as well as weakness thus a particular kind of climbing will associate with a specific type of shoe as per its closure.
Downturn.
Looking at this factor, climbing shoes will range from aggressive, moderate to flat which gives them an indication of the climbing angle at which they perform best. For instance flat shoes will perform well on less vertical point as well as in cracks, aggressive footwear will shine well on sloppy rocks while moderately downturned type are known to do best at vertical landscape. A footwear which has no downturn will enable ones feet to lie flat, this type is the most comfortable of all. Shoes designed to produce more aggressive downturn will give the climbers toes more power to pull and perch on minute edges. A climber is advised to focus mostly on the kind of terrain they mostly perform at, before deciding on the level of downturn they will have to go for.
Stiff vs. Soft.
This is another factor worth considering while choosing climbing footwear. Stiffness is determined by the level of support offered in the midfoot and the variety of rubber used in constructing the sole. The two factors are closely related to the shoe’s downturn. For instance a flat- lasted footwear will be naturally stiff and supportive, unlike aggressively downturned footwear which will be much tender and stretchy. Beginners as well as trainee climbers will opt for stiff footwear since they provide more support for the foot as well as power on the small edges. A climber on a soft footwear will task their feet with extra work to support themselves which can easily lead to development of fatigue. The soft shoe will have its advantage as it allows one to toe better on vertical walls. The climber's tests and preferences can as well influence this factor since those who are used to soft climbing footwear will not find it easy to switch to swift shoes so they will opt to stick to their choice just like their counterparts who are used to swift shoes will not want to change to soft shoes.
Leather vs. Synthetic.
Climbing footwear is usually made of leather, a synthetic leather substitute or a combination of both. Depending on the material used, the shoes will have their strengths and weaknesses including essential features such as breathability, durability, odor retention and flexibility. A footwear made of leather will be more breathable compared to one made of synthetic materials. This factor will influence people with sweaty feet to prefer footwear made of leather for the sake of their feet for they will be much comfortable on them unlike when on the shoes constructed from synthetic modes. Leather shoes are also durable so the climber on them will not worry much if they occasionally shove their foot onto cracks. Such shoes will also resist stench much better compared to shoes constructed from synthetic materials.
Leather shoes will stretch unlike synthetic ones, these makes the leather footwear more comfortable as they can take on a glove-like fit. The disadvantage of leather shoes is that, they can lose shape which makes them baggy unlike the shoes made from synthetic modes. While purchasing the footwear according to whether a climber prefers synthetic over leather or vice versa one should have it in mind that: the leather shoe should fit tightly to their foot so as to allow room for stretching while the shoe made of synthetic should just fit right. While this is the case, many people will prefer the shoes made from incorporation of both leather and synthetic since they will give the wearer a combination of both qualities, so one will get a well-fitting shoe without having to worry of the shoe stretching over time.
Rubber Type and Thickness.
Although many climbers have a particular liking for rubber, the most suited group to use rubber-soled shoes for climbing are the beginners. The other groups can opt for Vibram XS Grip, Trax SAS, XE and C4 depending on the level of performance one is craving for. As one commences climbing the grades as well as getting more into the nitty-gritty, they ought to consider; the variety of rubber and its thickness. If you are well versed with different types of rubber you will realize that some are softer and stickier while others are stiffer and durable. The rubber compounds that are soft and sticky are best suited for steep climbing, while the stiff and long-lasting ones are well suited for edging, slab, gym or crag. Rubber has various thicknesses, a factor which enhances its sensitivity as well as permanence of the footwear. Beginner climbers are advised to go for stiffer rubber of at least 4mm breadth.
Getting the Right Fit.
Upon grabbing the right shoe one is left with the task of choosing the right size to fit well on their feet. A new climber is advised to go for a shoe that will enable their feet lie moderately flat, for that case a more aggressive fit will make the best choice. If one opts to go for tight fit then they should choose their footwear wisely depending on the material used in constructing the shoe. For example, leather shoes will usually stretch about a full size, considering this, one need to choose uncomfortably tight shoes at first when they opt for shoes made from leather. If the climber chooses synthetic models they should make sure that it is well-fitting upon purchasing. One should also understand that, the level of the shoe’s softness will determine its durability, since the softer the shoe the less durable it will be.
Conclusion.
A climber should understand that whichever rock climbing type they engage in, whether smearing, flagging, edging or jamming, technique is a vital tool while the right footwear comes second. Considering this one need to take their time on choosing the right climbing shoes, for a fact climbing shoes forms part of the climber as it connects them to the surface.
To get it right, one need to identify a reliable shoe supplier who has a good history in dealing with footwear or one who understands shoes better. One of this is the FREAKY SHOE COMPANY, an online shoe platform dealing with designing and making all types of shoes ranging from good work shoes for all kinds of sport shoes. For whichever footwear you are craving to have or any information you need about them visit their website: freakyshoes.com.
